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Top 10 fast-growing stem plants to outcompete algae in a new tank.

📖 2,131 words🗓️ Published Jul 1, 2026

Direct Answer

To outcompete algae in a new tank, you need fast-growing stem plants that rapidly absorb excess nutrients and light, starving algae before it can establish. The top 10 species include Hygrophila polysperma, Egeria densa, Limnophila sessiliflora, and others that are hardy, undemanding, and quick to propagate. These plants act as a biological filter, consuming ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates that algae thrive on, giving your tank a clear head start.

Why Fast-Growing Stem Plants Beat Algae

In a new aquarium, algae typically wins because the nitrogen cycle is unstable, and nutrient spikes occur from decaying matter or fish waste. Fast-growing stem plants outcompete algae by rapidly absorbing these nutrients, especially ammonia and nitrates, before algae can use them. They also shade the substrate and hardscape, reducing light penetration to algae-prone areas. Unlike slow-growing plants like Anubias or ferns, stem plants grow several inches per week, creating a dense plant mass that consumes resources faster than algae can. This is called allelopathy in some cases, where plants release chemicals that inhibit algae growth, but mainly it's about resource competition. For best results, plant them densely from day one—spacing stems 1-2 inches apart—and use high light and CO2 if possible, though many of these plants thrive without CO2.

Top 10 Fast-Growing Stem Plants for Algae Control

1. Hygrophila polysperma (Dwarf Hygrophila)

This is a beginner favorite because it grows like a weed under almost any condition. It has bright green leaves that can reach 12-20 inches tall, and it propagates easily from cuttings. Hygrophila polysperma absorbs ammonia and nitrates quickly, making it ideal for cycling tanks. It tolerates low to high light, but under moderate light, it grows compact and bushy, creating a thick wall that blocks algae. Trim it weekly to encourage side shoots.

2. Egeria densa (Anacharis)

A classic oxygenator that grows rapidly, often 1-2 inches per day. Egeria densa has long, slender stems with whorls of dark green leaves. It thrives in cooler water (60-80°F) and low light, making it perfect for unheated or low-tech tanks. It consumes nitrates and phosphates voraciously and can be left floating or planted. Floating it near the surface helps shade the tank, reducing algae growth from excess light.

3. Limnophila sessiliflora (Ambulia)

Often called dwarf ambulia, this plant resembles Cabomba but is much hardier. It grows 1-2 inches per week with fine, feathery leaves that provide excellent surface area for nutrient absorption. Limnophila sessiliflora does well in low to moderate light without CO2, and it propagates easily from cuttings. Its dense growth shades the substrate, preventing green spot algae and hair algae from taking hold.

4. Ceratophyllum demersum (Hornwort)

Hornwort is a floating or planted stem plant that grows incredibly fast—up to 2-3 inches per day under good light. It has brittle, needle-like leaves that trap debris and absorb ammonia directly from the water column. It does not root, so you can let it float or anchor it. Hornwort is excellent for new tanks because it consumes nitrates and phosphates quickly, and it releases oxygen that benefits fish and bacteria.

5. Bacopa caroliniana (Bacopa)

This plant has thick, fleshy leaves that are resistant to algae because they are tough and slow to decompose. Bacopa caroliniana grows 1-2 inches per week under moderate light and can tolerate low light. It absorbs nitrates well and has a pleasant lemon scent when crushed. It is less invasive than some other stem plants, making it a good choice for planted tanks where you want control.

6. Rotala rotundifolia (Rotala)

A stunning stem plant that grows quickly and turns pinkish-red under high light. Rotala rotundifolia is undemanding and can grow in low light, but it thrives with CO2. It absorbs nitrates and phosphates efficiently, and its fine leaves provide hiding spots for shrimp and fry. Trim it often to keep it bushy and prevent it from shading lower plants.

7. Ludwigia repens (Ludwigia)

This plant has oval, reddish-green leaves that add color to a tank. Ludwigia repens grows 1-2 inches per week and is very adaptable to different water parameters. It consumes nutrients quickly and can be used as a background or midground plant. Under high light, it turns deep red, which helps outcompete algae by using more light energy.

8. Elodea canadensis (Canadian Pondweed)

Similar to Egeria densa, this plant is a cold-water favorite that grows rapidly. Elodea canadensis has thin, branching stems with small leaves that provide high surface area for nutrient uptake. It is excellent for new tanks because it can handle fluctuating ammonia levels and low light. It is often used in outdoor ponds but works well in aquariums.

9. Pogostemon stellatus (Octopus Plant)

This plant has unique, star-shaped leaves that grow in whorls. Pogostemon stellatus is a fast grower that can reach 12-18 inches tall in a few weeks. It requires moderate to high light and benefits from CO2, but it is still manageable in low-tech setups. It absorbs nitrates and phosphates efficiently and adds a distinctive texture to the tank.

10. Vallisneria spiralis (Vallisneria)

Though not a stem plant in the traditional sense (it is a rosette plant), Vallisneria grows from runners and spreads rapidly, creating a dense carpet or background. It has long, ribbon-like leaves that can reach 12-24 inches tall. Vallisneria absorbs nutrients from the substrate and water column, and it is very hardy, tolerating a wide range of conditions. It is excellent for algae control because it grows fast and shades the tank.

How to Plant and Maintain These Plants for Algae Control

To maximize algae outcompetition, plant these stem plants densely—at least 10-15 stems per 10 gallons. Use root tabs for substrate feeders like Vallisneria and Ludwigia, and add liquid fertilizer for column feeders like Hornwort and Egeria. Trim them weekly by cutting the top 3-4 inches and replanting the cuttings to fill gaps. This encourages bushy growth and prevents dead zones where algae can start. Maintain stable water parameters: keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm, nitrates under 20 ppm, and phosphates under 0.5 ppm. Use a timer for lighting—8-10 hours per day is ideal for plant growth but not so long that algae thrives.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

One mistake is overlighting without enough plants—this gives algae a head start. Start with low light (20-30 lumens per liter) and increase gradually as plants grow. Another is skipping CO2—while these plants can grow without it, adding CO2 boosts growth rates significantly, helping them outcompete algae faster. Avoid overfeeding fish, which adds phosphates and ammonia that algae love. Also, don’t let plants decay—remove dead leaves immediately, as they release nutrients back into the water. Finally, quarantine new plants to prevent introducing algae spores or pests like snails.

Flowchart: Choosing the Right Fast-Growing Stem Plant for Your Tank

flowchart TD A[New Tank Setup] --> B{Light Level} B --> C[Low Light] B --> D[Moderate to High Light] C --> E[Hornwort or Egeria densa] C --> F[Limnophila sessiliflora] D --> G[Rotala rotundifolia or Ludwigia repens] D --> H[Pogostemon stellatus] E --> I[Floating or Planted] F --> J[Dense Background] G --> K[Colorful Midground] H --> L[Unique Texture] I --> M[Shades Tank] J --> N[Absorbs Nutrients] K --> O[High Light Needed] L --> P[CO2 Beneficial] M --> Q[Algae Reduced] N --> Q O --> Q P --> Q

Flowchart: Maintenance Routine for Algae Control

flowchart TD A[Weekly Maintenance] --> B[Trim Top 3-4 Inches] B --> C[Replant Cuttings] C --> D[Remove Dead Leaves] D --> E[Check Water Parameters] E --> F{Ammonia or Nitrate High} F --> G[Water Change 20-30 Percent] F --> H[Add Liquid Fertilizer] G --> I[Reduce Light Hours] H --> I[Increase Plant Density] I --> J[Monitor Algae Growth] J --> K[Algae Decreasing] K --> L[Continue Routine] L --> A

Planting Strategies for Maximum Algae Suppression

To truly outcompete algae, how you plant these fast-growing stems matters as much as which species you choose. A common mistake in new tanks is planting too sparsely, leaving gaps where algae can establish. Aim for a dense, jungle-like arrangement from the very first day—this is often called the "dry start method" or simply "high-density planting." When stems are placed close together, they form a living carpet that shades the substrate, reducing light for algae that grow on the bottom. More importantly, a dense plant mass creates a powerful nutrient sink: each stem competes for the same pool of ammonia and nitrates, leaving almost nothing for algae. For a standard 20-gallon tank, you might need several bunches of each species, not just a few stems. Trim any leaves that are damaged or melting during the first week, as decaying plant matter can actually feed algae. Instead, remove those leaves promptly and let the healthy stems grow. If you see algae appearing on older leaves, trim those stems and replant the healthy tops—this encourages new growth and removes the algae hotspot. Remember, the goal is to keep the plants growing so fast that they outpace algae's ability to colonize surfaces. Regular trimming (every 1-2 weeks) also stimulates branching, making the plant mass even denser over time.

Managing Light and Nutrients for a Plant-Dominated Tank

While fast-growing stems are excellent at consuming nutrients, they still need the right balance to thrive and suppress algae. In a new tank, it's tempting to blast high light to make plants grow quickly, but this can backfire if the plant mass isn't yet dense enough to absorb all that energy. Instead, start with moderate light (around 8-10 hours per day) and gradually increase duration as the plants establish. Too much light early on can trigger a green water or hair algae outbreak, even with fast growers. Similarly, avoid over-fertilizing during the first few weeks. The initial nutrient spike from your substrate or fish waste is often enough to fuel plant growth without additional liquid fertilizers. If you add fertilizers too soon, you risk creating a surplus that algae can exploit. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the plants show signs of nutrient deficiency—such as pale leaves or stunted growth—before dosing. For CO2, while these plants can grow without it, adding CO2 injection will dramatically accelerate their growth rate, making them even more competitive against algae. If you don't use CO2, consider using a liquid carbon supplement (like glutaraldehyde-based products) to give the plants an extra edge. Also, ensure good water circulation: stagnant areas are where algae often thrive. A filter with gentle flow that moves water through the plant mass will distribute nutrients evenly and prevent dead zones.

Combining Stem Plants with Other Algae-Fighting Tactics

Fast-growing stem plants are powerful, but they work best as part of a broader strategy. In the first few weeks of a new tank, algae can still gain a foothold on hard surfaces like rocks, driftwood, or the glass. To complement your stems, add a few fast-growing floating plants like duckweed, frogbit, or water lettuce. These floaters consume nutrients directly from the water column and block light from reaching the substrate, further starving algae. They also provide shade for the stems below, reducing stress and preventing algae growth on the lower leaves. Another tactic is to introduce a cleanup crew early—snails like ramshorns or bladder snails, and small shrimp like cherry shrimp, will graze on any algae that does appear, buying time for your stems to dominate. Avoid adding fish until the plants are well-established (2-4 weeks), as fish waste adds nutrients that can fuel algae. If you must add fish, choose a small, low-bioload species like neon tetras. Finally, perform regular water changes (25-50% weekly) during the first month to dilute any nutrient spikes that your plants haven't yet absorbed. This combination of dense stem planting, floating plants, cleanup crew, and water changes creates a multi-layered defense that makes it nearly impossible for algae to take hold. Over time, as the stems grow and fill in, you can gradually reduce these interventions, but in the critical first weeks, this integrated approach is your best bet for a clear, algae-free start.

FAQ

How many stem plants do I need to outcompete algae? Plant at least 10-15 stems per 10 gallons of water to create a dense plant mass that absorbs nutrients quickly.

Can I use these plants without CO2? Yes, most of these plants (like Hornwort, Egeria densa, and Hygrophila polysperma) grow well without CO2, though growth will be slower.

Do I need to use root tabs for stem plants? Many stem plants absorb nutrients from the water column, but substrate feeders like Vallisneria and Ludwigia benefit from root tabs.

How often should I trim these plants? Trim them weekly to encourage bushy growth and prevent them from shading lower plants.

What if algae still appears despite these plants? Reduce light to 6-8 hours per day, increase water changes to 30% weekly, and add algae-eating fish like Otocinclus or shrimp.

Can I mix these plants with slow-growing species? Yes, but place fast-growing stem plants in the background or midground to prevent them from shading slow growers like Anubias.

Sources

Aquatic Plant Central
The Planted Tank Forum
Tropica Aquarium Plants
Aquarium Co-Op
Practical Fishkeeping Magazine
Seriously Fish
Fishlore Aquarium Community

Related on PULSE

Explore more in the PULSE library.

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## Direct Answer
To outcompete **algae** in a new tank, you need **fast-growing stem plants** that rapidly absorb excess **nutrients** and **light**, starving algae before it can establish. The top 10 species include **Hygrophila polysperma**, **Egeria densa**, **Limnophila sessiliflora**, and others that are hardy, undemanding, and quick to propagate. These plants act as a biological filter, consuming **ammonia**, **nitrates**, and **phosphates** that algae thrive on, giving your tank a clear head start.

## Why Fast-Growing Stem Plants Beat Algae
In a new aquarium, **algae** typically wins because the **nitrogen cycle** is unstable, and **nutrient spikes** occur from decaying matter or fish waste. **Fast-growing stem plants** outcompete algae by rapidly absorbing these nutrients, especially **ammonia** and **nitrates**, before algae can use them. They also shade the substrate and hardscape, reducing **light penetration** to algae-prone areas. Unlike slow-growing plants like **Anubias** or **ferns**, stem plants grow several inches per week, creating a dense **plant mass** that consumes resources faster than algae can. This is called **allelopathy** in some cases, where plants release chemicals that inhibit algae growth, but mainly it's about resource competition. For best results, plant them densely from day one—spacing stems 1-2 inches apart—and use high **light** and **CO2** if possible, though many of these plants thrive without CO2.

## Top 10 Fast-Growing Stem Plants for Algae Control

### 1. **Hygrophila polysperma** (Dwarf Hygrophila)
This is a **beginner favorite** because it grows like a weed under almost any condition. It has bright green leaves that can reach 12-20 inches tall, and it propagates easily from cuttings. **Hygrophila polysperma** absorbs **ammonia** and **nitrates** quickly, making it ideal for cycling tanks. It tolerates low to high light, but under moderate light, it grows compact and bushy, creating a thick wall that blocks algae. Trim it weekly to encourage side shoots.

### 2. **Egeria densa** (Anacharis)
A classic **oxygenator** that grows rapidly, often 1-2 inches per day. **Egeria densa** has long, slender stems with whorls of dark green leaves. It thrives in cooler water (60-80°F) and low light, making it perfect for unheated or low-tech tanks. It consumes **nitrates** and **phosphates** voraciously and can be left floating or planted. Floating it near the surface helps shade the tank, reducing **algae growth** from excess light.

### 3. **Limnophila sessiliflora** (Ambulia)
Often called **dwarf ambulia**, this plant resembles **Cabomba** but is much hardier. It grows 1-2 inches per week with fine, feathery leaves that provide excellent surface area for **nutrient absorption**. **Limnophila sessiliflora** does well in low to moderate light without CO2, and it propagates easily from cuttings. Its dense growth shades the substrate, preventing **green spot algae** and **hair algae** from taking hold.

### 4. **Ceratophyllum demersum** (Hornwort)
**Hornwort** is a **floating or planted** stem plant that grows incredibly fast—up to 2-3 inches per day under good light. It has brittle, needle-like leaves that trap debris and absorb **ammonia** directly from the water column. It does not root, so you can let it float or anchor it. **Hornwort** is excellent for **new tanks** because it consumes **nitrates** and **phosphates** quickly, and it releases **oxygen** that benefits fish and bacteria.

### 5. **Bacopa caroliniana** (Bacopa)
This plant has thick, fleshy leaves that are resistant to **algae** because they are tough and slow to decompose. **Bacopa caroliniana** grows 1-2 inches per week under moderate light and can tolerate low light. It absorbs **nitrates** well and has a pleasant lemon scent when crushed. It is less invasive than some other stem plants, making it a good choice for **planted tanks** where you want control.

### 6. **Rotala rotundifolia** (Rotala)
A **stunning stem plant** that grows quickly and turns pinkish-red under high light. **Rotala rotundifolia** is undemanding and can grow in low light, but it thrives with CO2. It absorbs **nitrates** and **phosphates** efficiently, and its fine leaves provide hiding spots for shrimp and fry. Trim it often to keep it bushy and prevent it from shading lower plants.

### 7. **Ludwigia repens** (Ludwigia)
This plant has oval, reddish-green leaves that add color to a tank. **Ludwigia repens** grows 1-2 inches per week and is very adaptable to different water parameters. It consumes **nutrients** quickly and can be used as a **background** or **midground** plant. Under high light, it turns deep red, which helps **outcompete algae** by using more light energy.

### 8. **Elodea canadensis** (Canadian Pondweed)
Similar to **Egeria densa**, this plant is a **cold-water** favorite that grows rapidly. **Elodea canadensis** has thin, branching stems with small leaves that provide high surface area for **nutrient uptake**. It is excellent for **new tanks** because it can handle fluctuating **ammonia** levels and low light. It is often used in **outdoor ponds** but works well in aquariums.

### 9. **Pogostemon stellatus** (Octopus Plant)
This plant has unique, star-shaped leaves that grow in whorls. **Pogostemon stellatus** is a **fast grower** that can reach 12-18 inches tall in a few weeks. It requires moderate to high light and benefits from CO2, but it is still manageable in low-tech setups. It absorbs **nitrates** and **phosphates** efficiently and adds a distinctive texture to the tank.

### 10. **Vallisneria spiralis** (Vallisneria)
Though not a stem plant in the traditional sense (it is a **rosette plant**), **Vallisneria** grows from runners and spreads rapidly, creating a dense **carpet** or **background**. It has long, ribbon-like leaves that can reach 12-24 inches tall. **Vallisneria** absorbs **nutrients** from the substrate and water column, and it is very hardy, tolerating a wide range of conditions. It is excellent for **algae control** because it grows fast and shades the tank.

## How to Plant and Maintain These Plants for Algae Control
To maximize **algae outcompetition**, plant these stem plants **densely**—at least 10-15 stems per 10 gallons. Use **root tabs** for substrate feeders like **Vallisneria** and **Ludwigia**, and add **liquid fertilizer** for column feeders like **Hornwort** and **Egeria**. Trim them weekly by cutting the top 3-4 inches and replanting the cuttings to fill gaps. This encourages bushy growth and prevents **dead zones** where algae can start. Maintain **stable water parameters**: keep **ammonia** and **nitrite** at 0 ppm, **nitrates** under 20 ppm, and **phosphates** under 0.5 ppm. Use a **timer** for lighting—8-10 hours per day is ideal for plant growth but not so long that algae thrives.

## Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
One mistake is **overlighting** without enough plants—this gives algae a head start. Start with low light (20-30 lumens per liter) and increase gradually as plants grow. Another is **skipping CO2**—while these plants can grow without it, adding **CO2** boosts growth rates significantly, helping them outcompete algae faster. Avoid **overfeeding fish**, which adds **phosphates** and **ammonia** that algae love. Also, don’t let plants **decay**—remove dead leaves immediately, as they release **nutrients** back into the water. Finally, **quarantine** new plants to prevent introducing **algae spores** or **pests** like **snails**.

## Flowchart: Choosing the Right Fast-Growing Stem Plant for Your Tank
```mermaid
flowchart TD
    A[New Tank Setup] --> B{Light Level}
    B --> C[Low Light]
    B --> D[Moderate to High Light]
    C --> E[Hornwort or Egeria densa]
    C --> F[Limnophila sessiliflora]
    D --> G[Rotala rotundifolia or Ludwigia repens]
    D --> H[Pogostemon stellatus]
    E --> I[Floating or Planted]
    F --> J[Dense Background]
    G --> K[Colorful Midground]
    H --> L[Unique Texture]
    I --> M[Shades Tank]
    J --> N[Absorbs Nutrients]
    K --> O[High Light Needed]
    L --> P[CO2 Beneficial]
    M --> Q[Algae Reduced]
    N --> Q
    O --> Q
    P --> Q
```

## Flowchart: Maintenance Routine for Algae Control
```mermaid
flowchart TD
    A[Weekly Maintenance] --> B[Trim Top 3-4 Inches]
    B --> C[Replant Cuttings]
    C --> D[Remove Dead Leaves]
    D --> E[Check Water Parameters]
    E --> F{Ammonia or Nitrate High}
    F --> G[Water Change 20-30 Percent]
    F --> H[Add Liquid Fertilizer]
    G --> I[Reduce Light Hours]
    H --> I[Increase Plant Density]
    I --> J[Monitor Algae Growth]
    J --> K[Algae Decreasing]
    K --> L[Continue Routine]
    L --> A
```

## Planting Strategies for Maximum Algae Suppression

To truly outcompete algae, how you plant these fast-growing stems matters as much as which species you choose. A common mistake in new tanks is planting too sparsely, leaving gaps where algae can establish. Aim for a dense, jungle-like arrangement from the very first day—this is often called the "dry start method" or simply "high-density planting." When stems are placed close together, they form a living carpet that shades the substrate, reducing light for algae that grow on the bottom. More importantly, a dense plant mass creates a powerful nutrient sink: each stem competes for the same pool of ammonia and nitrates, leaving almost nothing for algae. For a standard 20-gallon tank, you might need several bunches of each species, not just a few stems. Trim any leaves that are damaged or melting during the first week, as decaying plant matter can actually feed algae. Instead, remove those leaves promptly and let the healthy stems grow. If you see algae appearing on older leaves, trim those stems and replant the healthy tops—this encourages new growth and removes the algae hotspot. Remember, the goal is to keep the plants growing so fast that they outpace algae's ability to colonize surfaces. Regular trimming (every 1-2 weeks) also stimulates branching, making the plant mass even denser over time.

## Managing Light and Nutrients for a Plant-Dominated Tank

While fast-growing stems are excellent at consuming nutrients, they still need the right balance to thrive and suppress algae. In a new tank, it's tempting to blast high light to make plants grow quickly, but this can backfire if the plant mass isn't yet dense enough to absorb all that energy. Instead, start with moderate light (around 8-10 hours per day) and gradually increase duration as the plants establish. Too much light early on can trigger a green water or hair algae outbreak, even with fast growers. Similarly, avoid over-fertilizing during the first few weeks. The initial nutrient spike from your substrate or fish waste is often enough to fuel plant growth without additional liquid fertilizers. If you add fertilizers too soon, you risk creating a surplus that algae can exploit. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the plants show signs of nutrient deficiency—such as pale leaves or stunted growth—before dosing. For CO2, while these plants can grow without it, adding CO2 injection will dramatically accelerate their growth rate, making them even more competitive against algae. If you don't use CO2, consider using a liquid carbon supplement (like glutaraldehyde-based products) to give the plants an extra edge. Also, ensure good water circulation: stagnant areas are where algae often thrive. A filter with gentle flow that moves water through the plant mass will distribute nutrients evenly and prevent dead zones.

## Combining Stem Plants with Other Algae-Fighting Tactics

Fast-growing stem plants are powerful, but they work best as part of a broader strategy. In the first few weeks of a new tank, algae can still gain a foothold on hard surfaces like rocks, driftwood, or the glass. To complement your stems, add a few fast-growing floating plants like duckweed, frogbit, or water lettuce. These floaters consume nutrients directly from the water column and block light from reaching the substrate, further starving algae. They also provide shade for the stems below, reducing stress and preventing algae growth on the lower leaves. Another tactic is to introduce a cleanup crew early—snails like ramshorns or bladder snails, and small shrimp like cherry shrimp, will graze on any algae that does appear, buying time for your stems to dominate. Avoid adding fish until the plants are well-established (2-4 weeks), as fish waste adds nutrients that can fuel algae. If you must add fish, choose a small, low-bioload species like neon tetras. Finally, perform regular water changes (25-50% weekly) during the first month to dilute any nutrient spikes that your plants haven't yet absorbed. This combination of dense stem planting, floating plants, cleanup crew, and water changes creates a multi-layered defense that makes it nearly impossible for algae to take hold. Over time, as the stems grow and fill in, you can gradually reduce these interventions, but in the critical first weeks, this integrated approach is your best bet for a clear, algae-free start.

## FAQ
**How many stem plants do I need to outcompete algae?**
Plant at least 10-15 stems per 10 gallons of water to create a dense **plant mass** that absorbs nutrients quickly.

**Can I use these plants without CO2?**
Yes, most of these plants (like **Hornwort**, **Egeria densa**, and **Hygrophila polysperma**) grow well without CO2, though growth will be slower.

**Do I need to use root tabs for stem plants?**
Many stem plants absorb nutrients from the water column, but substrate feeders like **Vallisneria** and **Ludwigia** benefit from **root tabs**.

**How often should I trim these plants?**
Trim them weekly to encourage bushy growth and prevent them from shading lower plants.

**What if algae still appears despite these plants?**
Reduce **light** to 6-8 hours per day, increase **water changes** to 30% weekly, and add **algae-eating fish** like **Otocinclus** or **shrimp**.

**Can I mix these plants with slow-growing species?**
Yes, but place fast-growing stem plants in the **background** or **midground** to prevent them from shading slow growers like **Anubias**.

## Sources
- Aquatic Plant Central
- The Planted Tank Forum
- Tropica Aquarium Plants
- Aquarium Co-Op
- Practical Fishkeeping Magazine
- Seriously Fish
- Fishlore Aquarium Community

## Related on PULSE
- Explore more in the PULSE library.

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