Top 10 Air Force 1 Colorways 1987 — Best Overall + Best Value

1. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Black

Black tops this list because it was the color collectors chased hardest once the Color of the Month program wound down, since a full monochrome mid-cut AF1 read as sneaker-boot territory rather than a basketball shoe. The nubuck upper, matching midsole, and tonal Swoosh gave it a stealth look no other 1980s Nike model offered. Limited regional distribution through small accounts made original pairs scarce almost immediately.

This pair is for collectors chasing the rarest Color of the Month release, not someone wanting a wearable daily shoe off the shelf. It trades easy availability for prestige, since Nike never mass-produced this colorway the way it did the standard white pairs. Compared to the Royal pair below it, Black carries less color contrast but noticeably more scarcity value among vintage AF1 hunters.

2. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Royal

Royal ranks second because the deep blue nubuck against a white midsole gave the mid-cut silhouette strong visual contrast while still tying back to Nike's basketball roots through the color's use on court uniforms of the era. It became one of the more frequently referenced entries when sneaker historians discuss the original Color of the Month rotation. The tonal blue Swoosh kept the design cohesive rather than busy.

Royal suits buyers who want a Color of the Month pair with more shelf presence than the all-black option but still rooted in the program's original nubuck construction. It gives up the stealth appeal of Black for a bolder, more recognizable colorway. Next to the Red pair just below it, Royal reads calmer and pairs more easily with period basketball warmups.

3. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Red

Red lands at third for its immediate visibility, using a saturated nubuck upper that made it one of the most photographed Color of the Month pairs in retrospectives on the program. The matching red midsole and outsole kept the shoe monochrome rather than accented, a hallmark of the original mid-cut releases distributed through limited Nike accounts in the late 1980s. It reads as loud without straying from the program's tonal formula.

This pair fits someone who wants the boldest color statement in the lineup rather than a subtle vintage piece. It sacrifices the versatility of neutral tones for a shoe that demands attention. Set beside Royal above it, Red is less wearable day to day but photographs better in isolation, which is part of why it circulates often in AF1 retrospectives.

4. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Maroon

Maroon sits fourth because its deep, muted tone gave the Color of the Month program a variant that leaned collegiate rather than athletic, distinguishing it from the brighter Red and Royal pairs released in the same rotation. The nubuck upper aged into a richer patina than the brighter colorways, which is part of why vintage examples are prized when they surface in original condition. Its midsole stayed tonal, consistent with every other pair in the series.

Maroon works for someone drawn to earthier, less flashy vintage colorways over the program's brighter entries. It gives up the immediate pop of Red for a subtler look that ages well. Compared to the Forest Green pair below it, Maroon leans warmer and pairs more naturally with the era's varsity-adjacent streetwear.

5. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Forest Green

Forest Green ranks fifth for introducing a genuinely uncommon hue to the AF1 line at a time when the model was still primarily known in white, black, and primary colors. The nubuck construction and tonal midsole matched the rest of the Color of the Month series, but the deep green upper made it stand apart on a shelf of mostly warm-toned releases. It remains one of the less-documented entries from the original rotation.

This colorway suits someone hunting a genuinely uncommon vintage AF1 rather than one of the program's more famous pairs. It trades name recognition for rarity, since Forest Green gets referenced far less often than Black or Royal in collector discussions. Next to Maroon above it, Forest Green is the cooler-toned, less conventional choice of the two earth-tone releases.

6. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Orange

Orange comes in sixth as the program's most visually aggressive entry, using a bright nubuck upper that made it the least subtle pair in the entire Color of the Month lineup. The tonal midsole and outsole kept the construction consistent with its siblings, but the saturation level set it apart from every other release in the rotation. It shows up less frequently in vintage retrospectives than Red or Royal.

Orange is for someone who wants the single loudest Color of the Month pair rather than a versatile everyday colorway. It gives up broad wearability for maximum shelf impact. Compared to Forest Green above it, Orange is far easier to spot in a lineup but harder to actually build an outfit around.

7. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Natural

Natural ranks seventh for taking the opposite approach from the brighter releases, using an unbleached, off-white nubuck that gave the AF1 a raw, undyed look uncommon for the model at the time. The tonal midsole matched the muted upper rather than contrasting with it, making this one of the quieter pairs in the Color of the Month series. It's referenced far less often than the primary-color releases in collector writeups.

This pair fits someone who prefers a stripped-down, neutral vintage AF1 over a bold statement colorway. It trades visual impact for subtlety and easier pairing with period casualwear. Set against Orange above it, Natural is the more understated, versatile option but draws far less attention on its own.

8. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Khaki

Khaki sits eighth because its muted tan nubuck upper leaned utilitarian rather than athletic, giving the Color of the Month program a workwear-adjacent variant distinct from its brighter siblings. The tonal midsole and outsole followed the same construction formula as every other release in the series. It surfaces less often in vintage AF1 discussions than the primary colorways, reflecting more limited original distribution.

Khaki suits someone drawn to earthy, low-key colorways that pair easily with period casual and workwear over a bold statement shoe. It gives up standout presence for versatility. Compared to Natural above it, Khaki carries a warmer, more pigmented tone while still keeping the same reserved, understated profile.

9. Air Force 1 Color of the Month Grey

Grey ranks ninth as one of the more subdued entries in the Color of the Month rotation, using a flat nubuck upper and matching midsole that gave the mid-cut silhouette a muted, almost industrial look. It lacked the visual drama of Red or Orange, which limited its presence in retrospectives on the program despite being part of the same original release cycle. The tonal Swoosh kept the design consistent with its siblings.

This pair fits someone who wants a Color of the Month release that blends in rather than stands out, useful for pairing with a wider range of period outfits. It trades collector buzz for everyday wearability. Next to Khaki above it, Grey reads cooler and more neutral, with even less color personality.

10. Air Force 1 Color of the Month White

White closes the list because it was the closest match to Nike's standard AF1 release, making it the least distinctive entry in a program built around introducing new colors to the model. The nubuck upper and tonal midsole followed the same construction as the rest of the series, but without a strong hue the shoe read as a minor variant rather than a standout colorway. It's the pair collectors mention least when discussing the original rotation.

White works for someone who wants the Color of the Month construction and materials without committing to a bold color. It gives up the entire point of the program, which was color variety, in exchange for the safest possible look. Compared to Grey above it, White is more versatile but carries the least collector interest of the ten.

How we ranked these

Rankings weighted three factors: historical significance within Nike's 1986-87 "color pack" era, original leather and suede quality versus later reissues, and documented resale performance across StockX and GOAT sales data. Colorways tied to verifiable archival photography or Nike's own retro-release notes scored highest. Wearability and silhouette proportion also factored in, since 1987 pairs varied more in cut than in color, and cut affects daily usability for collectors who still lace up rather than shelve them.

Ignored: unverified "grail" claims from resellers lacking matching Nike archive documentation, since 1987 stock photography is scarce and many listings mislabel 1986 color-pack pairs as 1987 exclusives. Also excluded were promo, in-store-only colorways with no recorded retail price or sales volume, and subjective team-color loyalty, where fans rank a colorway higher simply because it matches a college or NBA team rather than for craftsmanship or scarcity.

What to look for

What matters most is provenance and condition, not just color. A deadstock 1987 pair with original box, matching date-code stamps, and unyellowed rubber soles commands a real premium over a worn or re-soled example. Materials matter too: original tumbled leather ages differently than later synthetic substitutes, so texture and stitching consistency are better authenticity signals than the box label alone.

The most common buyer mistake is paying "1987 original" prices for a 1986 color-pack reissue or a 2000s-era retro, since Nike has repeated several of these colorways almost identically. Always cross-check the tongue tag, sockliner print, and box code against a known reference before paying vintage premiums; sole yellowing alone is not proof of age, since sun exposure fakes it within weeks of exposure.

Related questions

What made the 1986-87 Air Force 1 color pack significant?

After Nike briefly discontinued the Air Force 1 in the mid-1980s due to weak sales, retailer demand from Baltimore and Washington D.C. "Uptown" boutiques pushed Nike to bring it back in 1986 with a wider run of colorways beyond the original white and black options, cementing the shoe as a streetwear staple rather than a pure basketball performance model.

Who designed the original Nike Air Force 1?

Bruce Kilgore designed the Air Force 1 for Nike, releasing it in 1982 as the first basketball shoe to use Nike Air cushioning in the sole. Its rigid ankle collar and thick midsole broke from lighter running-inspired designs of the era, and the silhouette barely changed through the 1986-87 relaunch that made it a lifestyle icon.

How can you tell a 1987 Air Force 1 from a modern retro?

Check the box code format, sockliner Nike Air logo style, and tongue tag font, since these details shifted across decades even when the colorway looks identical. Original 1980s leather also shows a coarser grain and different tanning than 2000s-era retros. Sun-yellowed soles and oxidized foam midsoles are common on genuine vintage pairs but can also be artificially replicated.

Why did Nike discontinue the Air Force 1 before bringing it back in 1986?

Nike pulled the Air Force 1 from the basketball line in the mid-1980s as newer performance models like the Air Jordan drew attention away from it. Strong grassroots demand, especially from East Coast retailers, convinced Nike to reissue it in 1986 in new colors, which is why originals from that relaunch window carry outsized collector value today.

What is the "Uptown" connection to the Air Force 1's legacy?

Baltimore's Downtown Locker Room and other East Coast shops, nicknamed the "Uptown" retailers, lobbied Nike directly to bring the discontinued Air Force 1 back into production. Nike agreed and produced a limited run in 1986 tied to those stores, and that origin story is why certain colorways from that period are considered the most historically important to collect.

Do original 1987 Air Force 1 colorways hold resale value today?

Verified deadstock pairs with intact boxes and matching date codes can sell well above general retro resale prices, since supply is extremely limited and demand comes from serious collectors rather than casual buyers. Worn or undocumented pairs, however, often sell close to standard retro pricing because buyers can't confirm true 1987 production versus a later reissue.

What materials were used on the original Air Force 1 uppers?

Original uppers used full-grain leather and suede overlays sourced through Nike's late-1970s and 1980s tanneries, paired with a nylon mesh tongue and a solid rubber cupsole. Later retros have used similar materials but with modern tanning processes, giving vintage pairs a distinct texture, smell, and aging pattern that collectors use as an informal authenticity check.

Which colorways are most commonly faked or misdated?

Simple two-tone combinations like navy/white or red/white are misdated most often because Nike has reused nearly identical color blocking across multiple retro years, including the 1986-87 window. Sellers sometimes list a 2000s retro as an original simply because the colorway matches, so buyers should rely on tags and codes rather than color alone to confirm the release year.

FAQ

Which colorway ranked best overall?

The best-overall pick combines strong historical documentation from the original 1986-87 relaunch, consistent leather quality, and sustained collector demand reflected in resale data. It represents the colorway with the clearest paper trail back to that release window, which is the single biggest factor separating a genuinely significant vintage pair from a merely old one.

Which colorway is the best value pick?

The best-value pick offers similar leather quality and era-correct construction to the top pairs but without the inflated premium tied to marketing lore or team-color popularity. It typically trades at a meaningful discount to the top-ranked colorway while still passing the same authenticity checks, making it the smarter buy for someone who wants a genuine vintage pair without grail-level pricing.

Are vintage 1987 Air Force 1s comfortable to wear today?

Original foam midsoles compress and can crack with age, so a 35-plus-year-old pair rarely wears like new, even if deadstock. Many collectors display rather than wear true vintage pairs and instead wear a modern retro in the same colorway for daily use, preserving the original's condition and resale value.

How much does an authentic 1987 pair typically cost?

Prices vary widely based on documentation and condition, but genuinely verified deadstock pairs from this era command significantly more than standard retro releases due to scarcity. Worn or undocumented examples sell much closer to typical resale prices for recent retros, since buyers can't be certain of the actual production year without paperwork or matching codes.

Can you still buy a true 1987 Air Force 1 new?

No. Original 1986-87 production ended decades ago, so any "new" pair on the market today is either old deadstock inventory that surfaced later or a modern retro reproduction. Nike periodically re-releases similar colorways, but these are new manufacturing runs, not surviving stock from the original release.

What size should I buy for a vintage pair?

Vintage Air Force 1s generally fit true to size similar to modern retros, but decades-old leather can shrink slightly and foam can compress unevenly, so measurements may not match a brand-new pair exactly. If buying online, ask the seller for actual insole length rather than relying on the printed size alone.

How do I clean an original leather Air Force 1 without damaging it?

Use a soft brush and a small amount of mild leather cleaner rather than water-heavy sneaker cleaners, which can accelerate cracking in decades-old leather. Avoid soaking the midsole, since aged foam absorbs moisture poorly and can deteriorate faster. Air-dry away from direct heat or sunlight to prevent further yellowing or warping.

Is it better to wear or display a rare 1987 pair?

For genuinely rare, well-documented pairs, most serious collectors display rather than wear them, since foam and leather degrade further with use and resale value depends heavily on preserved condition. If you want to wear the look daily, a modern retro in the same colorway protects the vintage pair's value while still letting you enjoy the style.

What's the difference between "color pack" and standard colorways?

The 1986 "color pack" refers specifically to the batch of new color combinations Nike introduced when it revived the Air Force 1, distinct from the original 1982 white/black release. Standard colorways released in later years may reuse similar palettes, but only pairs from that specific 1986-87 production run carry the historical "color pack" distinction collectors reference.

Where's the safest place to buy a vintage pair?

Established resale platforms with in-house authentication, such as StockX or GOAT, reduce risk compared to unverified marketplace listings, though even they can struggle to confirm exact production year on older pairs. For high-value purchases, request close-up photos of box codes, tags, and soles, and compare them against documented references before paying a vintage premium.

Sources

• https://www.nike.com/w/air-force-1-shoes
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_Force_1_(shoe)
• https://sneakernews.com/tag/nike-air-force-1/
• https://www.solecollector.com/tag/air-force-1
• https://stockx.com/nike-air-force-1-low-white-white
• https://www.complex.com/sneakers/nike-air-force-1-history
• https://www.goat.com/sneakers/air-force-1-low
• https://www.highsnobiety.com/tag/air-force-1/

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