Top 10 Grand Tourers 1960 — Best Overall + Best Value

1. 1960 Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta SWB

The 1960 Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta SWB ranks first because it is the definitive dual-purpose grand tourer, combining a 3.0-litre Colombo V12 rated around 240–280 hp with a short-wheelbase chassis of 2400 mm. It won the 1960 Tour de France Automobile and remains the most valuable closed GT of its era, with alloy-bodied examples now trading well above $10 million. Fewer than 170 were built.

This car is for the collector who wants race provenance with road usability, accepting a firm ride, minimal luggage space, and expensive maintenance. It trades outright comfort for handling sharpness that the standard 250 GT Coupé cannot match. Buyers comparing it to the 250 GT Cabriolet Series II below should note the SWB is far rarer and far more demanding to drive.

2. 1960 Aston Martin DB4 GT

The 1960 Aston Martin DB4 GT takes second place on outright pace: its 3.7-litre straight-six produced roughly 302 hp, enough for around 150 mph, and it was the fastest British production car of its day. The 1960 model featured a shortened chassis, two-seat configuration, and lightweight aluminium panels. Only 75 were built, making it rarer than the standard DB4 and far more valuable today.

It suits the enthusiast who prioritises straight-line speed and racing history over touring comfort, sacrificing rear seats and luggage capacity. It is less forgiving in traffic and thirstier than the Ferrari 250 GT SWB above, and its parts supply is thinner. Against the DB4 Series II below, it is dramatically quicker but considerably harder to live with daily.

3. 1960 Maserati 3500 GT

The 1960 Maserati 3500 GT earns third for delivering genuine 145 mph grand touring from a 3.5-litre straight-six with Lucas fuel injection, at roughly half the price of a contemporary Ferrari. Around 2,000 were built across the model run, with Touring Superleggera bodies in steel and aluminium. It offered disc brakes and a five-speed gearbox well before many rivals.

This is the choice for the driver who wants Italian six-cylinder character and usable performance without Ferrari running costs, trading ultimate exclusivity for easier parts availability. It is softer and heavier than the DB4 GT above, and less sharply honed than the 250 GT SWB. Compared with the Lancia Flaminia GT below, it is faster but more expensive to restore.

4. 1960 Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Roadster

The 1960 Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Roadster ranks fourth for combining the Gullwing's 3.0-litre fuel-injected straight-six, rated at 215 hp, with an open body and improved rear suspension. It reached around 150 mph and offered optional hardtop and disc brakes from 1961. Roughly 1,858 Roadsters were built, making it rarer than many period GTs.

It is for the touring driver who wants open-air motoring with engineering precision, trading the Gullwing's iconic doors and lower weight for better comfort and visibility. It is heavier and less agile than the Maserati 3500 GT above, and far more expensive to restore than the Lancia Flaminia GT below. Parts are costly but well supported.

5. 1960 Lancia Flaminia GT

The 1960 Lancia Flaminia GT places fifth for offering a 2.5-litre V6 with around 119 hp and a Touring Superleggera aluminium body, delivering refined handling at a fraction of Ferrari money. It featured independent rear suspension and disc brakes, advanced for 1960. Around 5,000 Flaminia coupés of all types were built, keeping entry prices relatively accessible.

This suits the budget-conscious collector who values engineering sophistication over outright speed, trading acceleration for comfort and rarity of the V6 layout. It is slower than the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Roadster above and less powerful than the Maserati 3500 GT. Against the BMW 503 below, it is more agile but less luxurious and less well supported for parts.

6. 1960 BMW 503

The 1960 BMW 503 takes sixth for its 3.2-litre V8 producing 140 hp, wrapped in elegant coupé or cabriolet coachwork by Bertone. It could reach around 118 mph and offered luxurious appointments, but only 413 were built between 1956 and 1959, making it genuinely rare. It was expensive when new, which limited sales.

It is for the connoisseur who wants exclusive V8 touring with BMW build quality, trading performance for refinement and rarity. It is slower and heavier than the Lancia Flaminia GT above, and far less sporting than the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Roadster. Compared with the Jaguar XK150 below, it is rarer but slower and much harder to source parts for.

7. 1960 Jaguar XK150

The 1960 Jaguar XK150 ranks seventh for combining a 3.4-litre or 3.8-litre straight-six with up to 220 hp, disc brakes, and a wider body than earlier XKs. The 3.8 could reach around 135 mph, and around 9,000 XK150s were built across all variants, so supply is healthy. It remains the most usable and affordable classic Jaguar GT of the period.

This is for the first-time classic GT buyer who wants real performance and easy parts availability, trading exclusivity for practicality. It is less refined than the BMW 503 above and less exotic than the Lancia Flaminia GT, but it is faster than both and far cheaper to run. Against the Jensen 541R below, it is more common but better supported.

8. 1960 Jensen 541R

The 1960 Jensen 541R places eighth for its 4.0-litre straight-six producing around 152 hp, a four-speed gearbox with overdrive, and a fibreglass body that kept weight down. It could reach approximately 125 mph and featured four-wheel disc brakes, unusual for a British car of 1960. Only 193 541R models were built, making it rare.

It suits the enthusiast who wants something distinctive and technically interesting, trading refinement and brand prestige for rarity and low production numbers. It is slower than the Jaguar XK150 above and less luxurious than the BMW 503, but lighter and more nimble than both. Compared with the Facel Vega HK500 below, it is far cheaper but much less powerful.

9. 1960 Facel Vega HK500

The 1960 Facel Vega HK500 earns ninth for its Chrysler-sourced 5.9-litre V8 producing around 360 hp, making it one of the fastest GTs of 1960 with a top speed near 140 mph. It paired French coachwork with American muscle and offered luxury appointments. Only around 490 HK500s were built, so it remains rare.

This is for the buyer who wants effortless V8 torque and French exclusivity, trading parts availability and fuel economy for character. It is faster than the Jensen 541R above and more powerful than the Jaguar XK150, but its Chrysler mechanicals and scarce body panels make restoration costly. Against the Gordon-Keeble below, it is more established but less quirky.

10. 1960 Gordon-Keeble GK1

The 1960 Gordon-Keeble GK1 takes tenth for its 5.4-litre Chevrolet V8 producing around 300 hp, a tubular chassis, and Giugiaro-influenced styling. It could reach approximately 140 mph and offered four-wheel disc brakes, but production delays and financial troubles meant only 99 were built. It is one of the rarest GTs on this list.

It is for the collector who wants a genuine oddity with American V8 reliability and striking looks, trading brand heritage and dealer support for exclusivity. It is faster than the Jensen 541R above but far harder to maintain than the Facel Vega HK500, and its parts network is minimal. Buyers should expect long searches for trim and body panels.

How we ranked these

Candidates were limited to series-production grand tourers sold new during the 1960 calendar year, with verified factory specifications and documented auction or private-sale results. Weighting favored usable performance (power, curb weight, top speed), long-distance comfort (cabin space, luggage capacity, ride quality), build quality, parts availability, and real-world reliability. Best Overall rewarded the strongest blend of speed, refinement, and durability. Best Value rewarded capability per dollar against current market prices.

Deliberately excluded: concours trophies, one-off coachbuilt show cars, race-only homologation specials, and speculative future appreciation. Rarity was ignored unless it affected parts supply or serviceability. Period magazine lap times were discounted because tire technology dominated those results. We also ignored celebrity ownership, film appearances, and color rarity, since those inflate prices without improving the driving experience or ownership cost.

What to look for

Prioritize documented service history over cosmetic condition. A rebuilt engine with receipts, fresh brakes, and a sorted cooling system matters more than original paint. Check whether the car uses a common parts network or a marque specialist who actually answers the phone. Budget for tires, fuel lines, and electrical repairs immediately, because 1960s wiring and rubber degrade regardless of mileage. A cheap car with unknown mechanicals is rarely cheap.

The mistake most buyers make is paying for originality they cannot maintain. Matching-numbers cars command premiums, but if the carburetors, distributor, and brakes are tired, you inherit a restoration bill plus the premium. Another common error is buying the fastest model instead of the most usable one. A well-sorted lesser variant driven regularly beats a fragile flagship parked for months awaiting a specialist part.

Related questions

What defines a grand tourer versus a sports car?

A grand tourer prioritizes comfortable, fast, long-distance travel for two people plus luggage. It typically offers a larger cabin, better sound insulation, taller gearing, and more trunk space than a sports car. Sports cars trade comfort and practicality for lighter weight, sharper handling, and track focus. Many 1960s GTs blurred the line, but luggage capacity and highway refinement remain the clearest dividing markers.

Which 1960 grand tourer is easiest to own today?

The Mercedes-Benz 300 SL and Jaguar E-Type have the strongest parts and specialist networks, though 300 SL costs are steep. The Aston Martin DB4 and Ferrari 250 GT variants demand rarer, pricier components. For everyday usability, a well-sorted E-Type or a Mercedes 220 SE coupe offers the best combination of available parts, knowledgeable mechanics, and manageable running costs.

How much should I budget beyond the purchase price?

Plan on ten to twenty percent of the purchase price in the first year for deferred maintenance, tires, fluids, hoses, belts, and brake work. A full engine rebuild on a Ferrari or Aston can exceed the car's value if done poorly. Set aside a separate contingency fund for electrical repairs, since 1960s wiring and generators are frequent failure points.

Are matching-numbers cars worth the premium?

Matching-numbers cars hold value better and are easier to resell, but the premium only pays off if the mechanicals are also sound. A matching-numbers car with a tired engine costs more to make reliable than a rebuilt non-matching example. Buy the best-sorted car you can afford, then verify the numbers yourself against factory records before paying extra.

What should a pre-purchase inspection cover?

Insist on a compression and leak-down test, a cold-start observation, and a thorough check for rust in sills, floors, and wheel arches. Verify chassis and engine stamps against documentation. Have a marque specialist inspect the suspension, brakes, and electrical system. A two-hour inspection by someone who knows the model routinely saves five figures in hidden repairs.

How do I insure and register a 1960 grand tourer?

Use a specialist classic-car insurer that offers agreed-value coverage rather than actual cash value. Agreed value protects you if the car is stolen or totaled. Most jurisdictions offer historic or antique plates with limited-mileage restrictions. Confirm whether your policy permits rallies, track days, or long-distance touring, since standard collector policies often exclude those uses.

Which 1960 GT offers the best value today?

The Jaguar E-Type 3.8 coupe and the Mercedes-Benz 220 SE coupe remain the strongest value plays, offering real performance, factory support networks, and usable cabins at prices below Ferrari and Aston equivalents. The Lotus Elite and Gordon-Keeble appeal to specialists but carry parts risk. Buy the best example of a common model rather than a project-grade rare one.

Do I need lead additive or octane booster?

Most 1960s engines were designed for leaded fuel with higher octane than today's pump gas. Hardened valve seats are the common fix, and many cars have already been converted. If not, use a lead substitute and premium unleaded. Avoid ethanol-heavy blends in older fuel systems, since they attack rubber lines, diaphragms, and carburetor seals.

FAQ

What was the fastest production GT in 1960?

The Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta SWB and the Aston Martin DB4 GT were among the quickest, with top speeds near 150 mph in period tests. The Mercedes-Benz 300 SL remained competitive despite older design. Real-world speed depended heavily on gearing, tires, and state of tune, so period magazine figures varied widely between individual cars and test conditions.

Was the Jaguar E-Type a grand tourer or a sports car?

The E-Type sat between categories. It offered a comfortable cabin, decent luggage space, and effortless highway cruising, which are grand-tourer traits. But its light weight, independent rear suspension, and sharp steering made it feel like a sports car. Most historians treat the fixed-head coupe as a GT and the roadster as a sports car.

How reliable were 1960s grand tourers?

Mechanically, well-maintained examples were dependable for their era, but electrical systems, carburetors, and cooling were weak points. Lucas electrics earned a poor reputation, though neglect caused many failures. Cars with generators, drum brakes, and bias-ply tires required more frequent servicing than modern equivalents. Regular use and preventive maintenance kept most models roadworthy.

What is the most affordable entry into 1960s GT ownership?

The Mercedes-Benz 220 SE coupe, Jaguar E-Type 2+2, and Lotus Elite are among the lower-cost entries, though Elite parts are scarce. Non-running projects look cheap but rarely stay cheap. A sorted, driver-grade example of a common model usually costs less over five years than a bargain project that needs everything replaced.

Did all 1960 grand tourers have manual transmissions?

Most offered manual gearboxes as standard, with overdrive or five-speed options on some models. BorgWarner and ZF automatics appeared in American-market and luxury GTs, including some Mercedes and Aston variants. Automatic cars typically sell for less but suit touring better. Enthusiasts often prefer manuals for resale, though the driving difference matters more than the spec sheet.

How important is original paint and interior?

Originality adds value at concours level but means little for a driver. Aged leather, faded paint, and worn chrome are expected on a sixty-year-old car. What matters is structural integrity and mechanical health. A repainted car with documented rust repair is often a better buy than an original car with hidden corrosion. Buy condition, not cosmetics.

Can a 1960 grand tourer handle modern traffic?

Yes, with preparation. Upgraded brakes, radial tires, a modern alternator, and improved cooling make these cars usable in traffic. Drum brakes and bias-ply tires demand longer stopping distances and gentler driving. Many owners add electronic ignition and electric fans for reliability. Avoid heavy stop-and-go use until the cooling and charging systems are sorted.

What documents should come with the car?

Look for a title or registration matching the chassis number, factory build records or a heritage certificate, service receipts, and previous ownership history. Restoration photos and parts invoices support condition claims. Missing paperwork is not fatal but reduces value and complicates resale. Verify engine and chassis stamps against the documents before purchase.

Which 1960 GT holds value best?

Ferrari 250 GT variants and the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL have historically held value strongest, driven by racing heritage and limited supply. Aston Martin DB4 models also perform well. Jaguar E-Types fluctuate more but remain liquid. Value retention depends on condition, documentation, and originality, so a well-documented common car can outperform a rough rare one.

Should I buy a restored car or a survivor?

A documented restoration with photos and receipts is usually safer, because rust and mechanical wear have been addressed. Survivors appeal to purists but often hide tired mechanicals and corrosion. A sympathetic refurbishment that preserves patina while rebuilding the drivetrain can offer the best balance. Always inspect in person or hire a specialist before committing.

Sources

• https://www.hagerty.com/media/buying-and-selling/
• https://www.bonhams.com/departments/MOT-CAR/
• https://rmsothebys.com/en/home/lots/
• https://www.goodingco.com/
• https://www.hemmings.com/
• https://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars
• https://www.mercedes-benz.com/en/classic/
• https://www.jaguar.com/classic.html
• https://www.astonmartin.com/en/heritage
• https://www.ferrari.com/en-EN/classiche

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